A Banarasi sari is a characteristic style from Benares handloom that holds a classical art heritage in the form of fascinating brocades assimilating the spirit and traditions of several ages since the Vedic period. Every pattern is a style of luxury, crafted in rich colours and interwoven with gold and silver threads embodying the developed, nurtured and perfected skills of the craftsmen. The Banarasi brocade that you see on this page is woven with expertise on pure silk fabric, which enhances the lustrous quality of the fabric. The bright golden-yellow base shade acts as the colour highlighter to every other weave. It illuminates the personality and charm of the wearer, hence a perfect choice for wedding functions or other ritual ceremonies.
A Banarasi is a defined trousseau for every bride’s wardrobe and this undoubtedly is one of them. The entire field area is handwoven in soothing and light geometric patterns forming a large spaced mesh, embellished with contrasting multi-coloured patterns of flowers. A Banarasi silk is marked as the national dress for any Indian women because of its unthinkable elegance and sophistication, which this sari completely renders. The image describing its heavy pallu is interwoven with multiple threads in a similar geometric pattern in the centre, whilst the border and bottom half are flourished with floral patterns with every blossoming flower enclosed in an alluring network of vines. The gold brocades along the border are the charm enhancers to this traditional wear.
When it comes to choosing from a variety of elegant sarees to be worn on any special occasion or big event, a Banarasi saree is always the top pick for all women. As the name suggests, a Banarasi saree originates from the ancient city of Varanasi (formerly known as Banaras) in Uttar Pradesh, India. These sarees are made of finely woven high-quality silk and bear opulent embroidery with metallic threads. The main characteristic feature of a Banarasi saree is gold and silver brocade or zari work upon the silk fabric. The end of the saree called Pallu is heavily decorated with the work of embroidered designs and sometimes with mina work. The making process of a Banarasi silk saree is elaborate and a lot of manual labor and dedication goes into it.
Before working on the original Banarasi saree, a template is prepared by making a detailed design on graph paper. This template contains the designs of the base, pallu, and border. When these designs are approved and agreed upon, the process moves further into the next step.
The Patta is a stencil made of cardboard on which the designs on graphic paper are put into the handloom machine and holes are punched into to create its exact pattern/copy. The stencil is then installed into the machine from where the weaving process begins.
High-quality silk yarns from South India are selected for the making of the finest Banarasi sarees. These raw yarns are then processed and dyed as per the color shade of choice. The excess water is drained out and the colored yarns are allowed to dry in the sun.
Zari is one of the distinctive features of Banarasis that makes the saree look graceful and beautiful. The selection of Zari is done as per the base color of the saree. Usually, in most sarees, copper zari is used but sometimes real silver and gold zari may also be used.
After the silk yarns are processed and ready, the process of weaving begins on a handloom attached to the machine. This is the most complicated step in the whole process. The longitudinal threads (the Tana) and the latitudinal threads (the Bana) are set on the loom. With the back-and-forth movement of the shuttle of the machine, the desired design is obtained and the weaving of the Banarasi saree is completed. The weavers of Banaras are highly skilled and thus they are able to exhibit excellent skills and the fabric comes out with the right details.
When the weaving of the saree is completed, it is made ready to be sent out for sale. Extra or loose threads are cut to make the saree flawless.
The colors of Banarasi sarees are always vibrant and eye-catching. Every step of the process of making these sarees is carried out in such a way that the richness and magnificence of the fabric and its design do not go for a toss and the saree turns out just the way it is required. The splendor of Banarasis is undoubtedly unmatched and this is the reason why they are in high demand even in the international fashion world.
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