Travels in Indian & Kashmir

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About the Book We EMBARKED From Madras on board the good ship Eliza, which had left England with passengers, bound for Calcutta, and stopped on her way at Madras. The monsoon had not yet set in, the weather was beautiful, and the first days of our voyage were delightful. The company on board was numerous, and, excepting myself, consisted exclusively of ladies and gentlemen all fresh from England. Six days passed pleasantly away. Favoured by the wind we made rapid progress, and were already advancing to the mouth of the Ganges, when we became conscious of some atmospheric changes. The air was dark, and though no heavy clouds were to be seen, the sun was no longer visible, the whole aspect of the heavens was of a sombre hue. Experienced seamen might have divined that these appearances foreboded a change in the weather, perhaps the approach of the monsoon; but the captain and officers of the 'Eliza' entertained no such apprehensions. Not only were they undisturbed, but seemed glad to be relieved from the inconvenience created by the rays of an almost vertical sun.

A large pilot-ship is constantly cruising off Sandheads, at a considerable distance out at sea, within sight of the mouth of the Hoogly, in order to furnish ships, bound on that course, with pilots. These ships are appointed by the East India Company, and are provided with experienced seamen. We had met one from which we had taken a midshipman and pilot.

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