The glory, and the colors of nature captured skillfully on cloth characterize the famous Jamawars of Kashmir. "Jama" means robe and "war" is yard. King and nobles bought the woven fabric by the yard, wearing it as a gown or using it as a wrap or shawl. The base of the Jamawar was always wool-with perhaps addition of a little cotton.
The brocaded parts were woven in silk or pashmina. Most of the designs were floral, with the kairy or paisley as the predominant motif. The art of weaving a Jamawar was painstaking and intricate one. Several kannis or little wooden shuttles of different colors were used for a single weft line of the fabric.
Upto 50 colors could be worked into one shawl-the most popular colors being
☛ zard (yellow)
☛ sufed (white)
☛ mushki (black)
☛ ferozi (turquoise)
☛ ingari (green)
☛ uda (purple)
☛ gulnar (crimson)
☛ kirmiz (scarlet)
Months of hard work went into the preparation for each Jamawar, with not more than an inch being added per day in a 48-inch width of material. Elegance, luxury, sophistication and class.
These are but a few of the adjectives that describes the Jamawar Art. Jamawar & Tanchoi are satin weave techniques where the motifs are created using the primary weft itself creating an inlaid look, unlike a brocade, which uses supplementary warp or weft to create the motifs. In industry jargon, we use the term Jamawar when the motifs feature more than one color, while Tanchois usually feature single color motifs.
Often the patterns and colors in a Jamawar are more subtle and create an old-world-charm. Predominantly a silk-only weave, we sometimes also throw in some zari in the body or borders to create cross-over fabric that offer the best of both Jamawar and Brocade weaves in the same product.
The name is a reference to the fact that originally, Jamavar fabric was only used to make yard long shawls which were purchased by locals to protect themselves against the cold in the chilly winter months. Nowadays, however, it is used to make a wide variety of garments including sarees, shalwar kameez, kurtas, kurtis and even lehenga cholis. Jamawar fabric history is a very interesting one, encompassing multiple dynasties and geographical locations.
The technique of weaving this fabric travelled from Persia to Kashmir, reaching the Indian sub-continent about 5 centuries ago. The production of this fabric flourished in the Mughal reign. Emperor Akbar patronized this fabric which led to a period of economic success for the weavers and a wide-spread popularity for the fabric. It is said that king Akbar was so impressed with these jamawar craftsmanship that he used to invite skilled craftsmen from arab countries and gradually they settled around Kashmir region.
Any compendium of Jamawar fabric information would be incomplete without a mention of Banaras, the center of brocade fabric weaving since the medieval times. Jamawar is actually one of the sub-types of the glorious Banarasi brocade. After it arrived in India, the Jamawar technique was further developed by Banarasi weavers, who also introduced beautiful Indian designs and motifs into it. The techniques for creating Jamawar fabrics were so intricate and time-consuming it would sometimes take a decade or more to produce a single shawl.
Another historical theory claims that when Maharaja Ranjit Singh took over Kashmir to his empire, some Sunni Muslim families migrated to Najibabad where they continued their trade of jamawar shwawls. Sunni Muslims found a commercial possibility for their craftsmanship and started settling there. The industries were blooming and karkhanas (workshops) was established to increase the production of jamawar.
Those days, jamawar was solely used to make shawls but now it is used in sarees, lehengas and gowns too. Once the Jacquard loom was introduced into the process, the time to produce this fabric was reduced, along with cost. This widened the customer base and made this fabric accessible to a people of different classes and income groups.
With the wane of the Mughal Empire, the patronage for this fabric declined and the industry dwindled to just a few artisans. The early 19th century saw major innovations in weaving. Skilled embroidery work and flawless weaves accentuated this fabric.
However, by the end of the 19th century, the art of Jamawar weaving began to fade away as the patronage of the Mughals went down. Otherwise, Jamawars were crafted out of pure silk and were exclusively worn by the royal and aristocratic classes. Fortunately, with advanced technology and faster looms Jamawars are accessible to all nowadays.
In the last century, the Indian government put in special efforts to revive the traditional textile industries of India. This, combined with the increasing demand for exquisite ethnic textiles in Indian as well as international circles, led to a revival of the Jamawar fabric industry. It is even possible for customers in international locations to purchase Jamawar fabric online, from trusted retailers of ethnic fashions and textiles.
Banarasi jamawar is set apart by its shimmering and intricate beauty. Multiple hues and detailed designs combine to create a truly exquisite textile. The designs are woven into the fabric itself, and unlike traditional Banarasi brocade, it is neatly clipped on the reverse side. The popular motifs include paisley, flowers, flowering branches, leaves, and other such nature-inspired designs, as well as Persian-style artwork.
The artistic motifs are arrayed along rich, zari-woven borders and may sometimes be woven all over the garment. From rich, traditional hues such as red, blue, and yellow to delicate pastel shades of pink and green, women will find all types of colors to choose from. Figurative motifs of hunters, deer, peacocks, and birds are also quite commonly seen on this type of fabric.
However, unlike Banarasi fabric, this will not leave any loose threads on the back side even though it is completely woven into the fabric. Historically, Jamawar shawls were handwoven, and so it used to take months to finish weaving even 1 shawl. And because it is handwoven, it is extremely costly, hence, only royal families could afford jamawar fabric.
Thus, it is known for being a prime choice of clothing for the royalty. By the end of the 18th century, the discovery of Jacquard loom made it accessible for all class of people, and Jamawar became more affordable. The base material with which Jamawar fabric is woven can also vary depending on the aesthetic desired by the weaver. Jamawar silk fabric is the traditional type, made with the finest silk threads woven into an exquisite, heavily patterned brocade fabric.
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As a favorite of royal kings and elites of the medieval period, Jamawar shawls are a statement of royalty for men. This beautiful Kani weave Jamawar shawl comes from Amritsar, with a fragrant floral pattern all over and a classic paisley design. A combination of warmth and aristocratic charm, Jamawar shawls like this have to be a staple in the wardrobe of any man who wants to leave a lasting impression with their taste in traditional fashion.
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A kaleidoscopic Sozni embroidery Jamawar shawl like this beautiful piece is all you need to make a simple outfit stand out. The bold paisley and floral patterns and rich color are traditional elements of Kashmiri shawls, inspired by the natural beauty of the land. The pure silk threads give a rich and warm touch to the wrap, with the ornate patterns making it a must-have accessory for your winter looks.
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If you want to experience the richness of Kashmiri shawls, go for a piece like this pure Pashmina Jamawar. Decorated with the traditional Sozni pattern all over that covers the entire weave in a golden mesh, the shawl becomes a warm and regal wrap. Intricate threadwork all over is done by hand, using fine threads that add texture and a vivid allure to the piece. A multipurpose shawl for sure, this Jamawar can be paired with any attire to make you look party-ready while its warmth makes you forget the winter chills.
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Blue and royalty are synonymous. Jamawar and royalty are also synonymous. Why not pick a charming pure Pashmina Jamawar like this one? The pleasing blue base is intricately covered in papier mache-inspired floral design all over. Hand embroidery by the trained hands of Pashmina artisans gives the shawl a warmth of human touch. Easy to carry and regal beyond words, this Jamawar will become your go-to piece for turning heads during winter festivities.
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A fan of multipurpose styling? This unique reversible Pashmina is a fashionable statement, which you can wear in two ways. With each side of the shawl displaying a beautiful color adorned with rich hand-embroidered Sozni work, the Jamawar shawl offers warmth and variety like no other winter wear, along with Pashmina’s unmissable luxury.
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Want a little more than simple patterns? Try this haute red Jamawar shawl from Amritsar. Adorned with Kashmiri Aari embroidery that gives the fabric a texture and added warmth, the shawl is made with wool, perfect for dealing with winter in style. The rich red and ornate patterns woven all over craft a wrap that is comfortably regal.
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Well, a black shawl is a must-have! This hand-embroidered Jamawar shawl, covered in an intricate floral vine pattern in the technique of Aari, balances richness and subtle beauty perfectly. The allure of black is incomparable, to which the art of Aari is spread like a magical vision. The softness and comfort of pure wool promise ease throughout the tough winter season, while you look like a million-dollar carrying this timeless black Jamawar.
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An everyday wear piece of regal fashion, this Jamawar shawl from Amritsar showcases the ornate and subtle feel of Kani weave, with elaborate designs woven into the fabric of the shawl. The traditional paisley and floral patterns on the Jamawar along with its rich colors make this shawl an ideal addition to your winter wardrobe, to elevate the casual looks into a statement of effortless luxury.
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Looking for a winter traditional wear to make your festive looks more luxurious? This Nehru jacket tailored with soft woolen Jamawar is the perfect addition to your kurtas this winter. Using the traditional Kani weave, beautiful floral patterns are infused into the woolen jacket, giving it a rich and elite air that will make simple, plain kurtas stand out while offering you a layer of warmth that is much needed.
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This Jamawar salwar suit set, made with Kani woven fabric offers you the perfect blend of style and warmth. The rich details all over, soft wool, and beautiful color make this a lovely ensemble for office, college, or get-togethers. You can style the suit with a cardigan or shawl or keep it minimal according to the weather and enter the foggy winter days in style!
Styling and accessorizing such a rich fabric requires a certain amount of attention to detail. The aim is to present an ensemble that is balanced and visually harmonious. Multiple pieces of overly heavy jewelry will create an unnecessary clash and would only be appropriate if it is a bridal ensemble.
For other special occasions, it is best to stick with one or two pieces of classic Indian jewelry such as a Kundan necklace, Polki earrings, diamond mang-tikkas, or gold bangles. These will nicely complement the traditional, intricate aesthetic of the garment. A pretty, embellished potli with matching designs will finish the ensemble perfectly.
Jamawar shawls and clothing material is a luxurious and high-prized fabric that needs special care and storage. Here are some ways of properly storing, washing, and maintaining your Jamawar shawls-
☀ Always store the Jamawar in a cool and dry place.
☀ Always fold your Jamawar shawl neatly. Avoid hanging it as that might affect the fabric and its softness.
☀ Go for a dry cleaning or handwash the shawl with the special cleaners available in the market.
☀ Clean the shawl after some use with a gentle brush to remove dirt and other fine particles.
☀ When wearing a Jamawar, be mindful of keeping it safe from sharp objects which can harm the fabric.
☀ When storing a Jamawar shawl, do not place naphthalene balls as they can harm the quality of the shawls. Fold them and wrap them in a soft material such as Muslin to protect the shawls from lint and dirt.
The subtle sheen and high-end beauty of this textile sets it apart and has helped to cement its status as the most popular and well-recognized Jamawar fabric even today. Weavers, however, are increasingly using unconventional fabrics to create beautiful Jamawar textiles. Jamawar chiffon fabric is one such interesting innovation. It has a very delicate, beautiful look.
In Kashmir, Jamawar is still woven using an adulterated form of Pashmina made of wool and cotton. This type of fabric is meant to keep the wearer warm and is the perfect textile for cold weather. As far as styling jamawar fabric is concerned, today, Jamawar fabric is used to make all types of clothing, from classic shawls to trendy sarees, salwar kameez, kurtas, lehenga cholis, and much more.
The beauty and intricacy of this fabric have also attracted the attention of high-fashion designers, who have chosen repeatedly to use it in order to create gorgeous designer party wear. You can explore Exotic India Art’s collection of Jamawar shawls handpicked from Kashmir, Banaras, and other shawl-weaving centers of India, and create your own luxurious wardrobe for this season.
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