Discover the fascinating world of Kalamkari sarees, an Indian textile art form rooted in Andhra Pradesh. This blog explores the history, tools, and intricate process of creating Kalamkari sarees—crafted entirely by hand using wooden pens, natural dyes, and age-old techniques. Learn about its cultural significance, evolving fashion trends, and sustainability while uncovering styling tips for modern wardrobes. Whether you’re an art lover, a saree enthusiast, or a conscious fashion advocate, this blog takes you on a journey into the legacy of Kalamkari and its place in contemporary fashion.
India is the land of many spell-binding art forms and one of them is Kalamkari. It is named by a combination of two words - Kalam which means pen and Kari which translates to craft. The art form involves artists using a wooden pen to draw designs on a fabric. Some of the most famous products created through this art form are Kalamkari sarees. A striking feature of the process of making Kalamkari sarees is that the use of machines is not involved at all. From treating the fabric to adorning it with designs, everything is done by hand and because of that, it takes days to complete just one saree.
Kalamkari has its roots in South India in the state of Andhra Pradesh and dates back to at least 3000 years ago. Generations of craftsmen have spent their lives practicing and perfecting it and making this art what it is today. It is mainly done in Machilipatnam and Srikalahasti with the processes adopted in both the places being slightly different from one another.
While wooden pens are used in Srikalahasti to create the outline of designs, hand-carved wooden blocks are used to print the outlines by Machilipatnam artisans. Breathtaking patterns of flowers, vines, trees, peacocks, parrots, etc are created on cotton and even silk fabrics by using natural dyes.
Apart from immense effort and time, a lot of raw materials and tools are used to bring Kalamkari sarees to life. Some of them are as follows -
The entire process of making a Kalamkari saree is quite lengthy and tedious. It consists of 23 stages but we will simplify it for you.
👉🏿 The fabric is soaked in a solution of buffalo milk, Myrobalan bud, and flower paste. This gives it an off-white color. The buffalo milk ensures that colors don’t spread on the fabric and Myrobalan ensures that the black dye sticks to the fabric. After treating it with the solution, the fabric is then left to dry.
👉🏿 Dyes are prepared using natural elements. For instance, the black dye used for outlining is made using iron pieces, jaggery, and alum. Yellow color is procured from pomegranate skin, while blue color is made from the Indigo plant. Once the dyes are ready, the kalam is prepared by chiseling a bamboo reed.
👉🏿 The fabric is spread on a wooden table and the kalam is dipped in the black dye first to draw patterns on it. When the outline is printed the cloth is washed again. Once the outline of the complete design is created, all the colors are filled in one by one. After application of every color, the cloth is washed to remove excess dye.
👉🏿 For the Machilipatnam style, a gunny cloth is spread on a wooden table with a damp cloth on top of it. The fabric is finally layered on it so that it doesn’t slip during the process. Printing is done in two steps. First, the background is printed and then the outline uses wooden hand-carved blocks.
👉🏿 After creating the outline of the design the colors are filled in and the saree is left in the open to dry for a period of at least 2-3 days. After the Kalamkari print is completely dry, extra color is strained out by washing the fabric under running water and then drying it again.
Beyond their artistic beauty, Kalamkari sarees carry deep cultural and ritualistic meaning. Traditionally, this craft was closely associated with temple art and storytelling. In the past, itinerant artists painted religious narratives from Hindu epics like the Ramayana and Mahabharata on cloth to be displayed in temple courtyards. These depictions gradually evolved into elaborate saree designs, making them more than just attire—they became living expressions of mythology and devotion.
Many auspicious motifs are found in Kalamkari designs, such as:
☛ Peacocks symbolize grace and prosperity
☛ Lotus flowers represent purity and divine beauty
☛ Trees and vines indicate growth, fertility, and the eternal cycle of life
☛ Scenes narrating tales from ancient scriptures
Even today, Kalamkari sarees are worn during festivals, pujas, and religious ceremonies, as they are considered sacred and culturally significant. Women often drape them for temple visits, weddings, and celebrations, especially in South India, where this tradition has thrived for centuries.
Kalamkari is a tradition passed down through generations, with entire families dedicated to preserving its heritage. The towns of Srikalahasti and Machilipatnam are still home to many artisan clusters that have been practicing this craft for centuries.
However, modern challenges threaten the survival of this ancient art:
☛ Machine-printed imitations flooding the market reduce demand for authentic handcrafted Kalamkari.
☛ Declining number of artisans, as younger generations shift to alternative professions.
☛ Rising costs of natural dyes make production expensive.
To keep this craft alive, government initiatives and artisan cooperatives are coming up but conscious and consistent consumer support is crucial.
While deeply rooted in Indian heritage, Kalamkari sarees have evolved to fit the aesthetic needs of modern fashion. Over the years, designers and fashion enthusiasts have reimagined this centuries-old art form, making it versatile, contemporary, and globally appealing. Whether it's a classic six-yard drape, a fusion ensemble, or high-fashion runway couture, Kalamkari continues to find its place in modern wardrobes.
Traditionally, Kalamkari sarees were worn during religious ceremonies and special occasions. However, with the rising preference for sustainable and handcrafted textiles, they have made their way into everyday fashion. Here’s how:
☛ Minimalist Styling : Modern women pair Kalamkari sarees with solid-colored, high-neck blouses, creating an effortless yet sophisticated look.
☛ Cotton Kalamkari for Office Wear : Lightweight and breathable, cotton Kalamkari sarees are ideal for work, exuding grace and professionalism while keeping comfort in mind.
☛ Monochrome Magic : Black-and-white Kalamkari prints with sleek, minimalistic blouses offer a perfect blend of tradition and contemporary elegance.
Indian and international designers have embraced Kalamkari, incorporating it into high-fashion collections. Some key trends include:
☛ Kalamkari on Silk and Organza : Luxurious silk Kalamkari sarees with intricate hand-painted motifs are now a staple in festive and bridal wear.
☛ Layered Fusion Drapes : Designers have experimented with layering techniques, where Kalamkari sarees are draped in unconventional styles with capes, jackets, and belts.
☛ Mixing Kalamkari with Other Weaves : Fashion houses have started blending Kalamkari prints with Banarasi, Chanderi, and Kanjeevaram silks, creating stunning Indo-traditional hybrids.
Celebrities and fashion icons have played a crucial role in bringing Kalamkari back into the spotlight, making it a sought-after choice at red carpet-events, award functions, and international fashion weeks.
With the rise of Indo-Western fashion, Kalamkari prints and fabrics have found a new dimension beyond sarees. Designers are now integrating this intricate artwork into:
☛ Kalamkari Jackets & Capes : These versatile pieces can be layered over sarees, dresses, and even casual denim to create a boho-chic aesthetic.
☛ Kalamkari Pants and Jumpsuits : Wide-legged trousers, palazzos, and structured jumpsuits featuring Kalamkari prints offer a stylish blend of ethnic and contemporary fashion.
☛ Indo-Western Dresses & Skirts : Flowy Kalamkari maxi dresses and printed skirts paired with modern crop tops have become a favorite among millennials and Gen Z.
While Kalamkari sarees were traditionally worn at religious gatherings, their elegance and timeless appeal make them perfect for weddings, festivals, and cultural events. Some popular choices include:
☛ Bridal Kalamkari : Brides opting for heritage-inspired attire often choose rich, hand-painted Kalamkari silk sarees for their pre-wedding ceremonies.
☛ Festive Drapes : Deep red, mustard yellow, and earthy brown Kalamkari sarees with mythological motifs are a top pick for pujas and temple visits.
☛ Statement Blouses : Kalamkari blouse designs with bold motifs can be paired with plain silk or chiffon sarees, adding a unique artistic touch to the ensemble.
As the world shifts toward slow fashion, Kalamkari has emerged as a champion of sustainability:
☛ Handmade and Artisanal : Each saree is crafted using age-old techniques, ensuring minimal carbon footprint and supporting local artisans.
☛ Natural Dyes : Unlike synthetic textiles, Kalamkari relies on plant-based dyes, making it an eco-friendly and skin-friendly choice.
☛ Zero-Waste Fashion : Scraps of Kalamkari fabrics are repurposed into accessories, patchwork designs, and home decor items, ensuring waste reduction in the fashion industry.
A Kalamkari saree is an elegant, timeless investment. Here are some styling tips to give it a contemporary twist:
☛ Edgy Look : Pair a Kalamkari saree with a leather belt and oxidized silver jewelry for a bold, modern aesthetic.
☛ Bohemian Touch : Style it with chunky wooden bangles, handmade juttis, and a loose drape for a relaxed yet chic vibe.
☛ Layering Magic : Team your Kalamkari saree with a long-embroidered jacket or an open-front shrug for a fusion statement.
☛ Statement Accessories : Wear temple jewelry or antique silver necklaces to complement the saree’s traditional essence.
With an increasing number of sustainable fashion advocates, Kalamkari sarees have gained international recognition. They are now featured in:
☛ Global fashion exhibitions, showcasing India’s textile heritage.
☛ Luxury boutique collections across Europe and the US.
☛ Celebrity wardrobes, where stars blend ethnic and contemporary styles effortlessly.
Kalamkari sarees are a part of the rich heritage of India. The fine craftsmanship implemented on them to create beautiful intricate designs makes them worthy of all the praise they get all over the world. Days of effort go into creating these sarees. These hand-crafted masterpieces deserve to be cherished and preserved.
By including Kalamkari sarees in our fashion, we support artisans, preserve heritage, and celebrate an art form that has stood the test of time. So, whether you’re wearing it for a casual day out, a festive occasion, or a high-fashion event, a Kalamkari saree will always be a statement of style that is conscious- of the past as well as the future.
Explore Exotic India’s collection of Kalamkari sarees and Kalamkari paintings. Whether you are a seasoned collector or want an introduction to this unique art form, this is the place to start!
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