Kanjivaram sarees from Kanchi, Tamil Nadu originated in ancient times and have remained popular as a divine Indian silk. The history, technique, stories, and styling of Kanjivaram sarees, along with tips to maintain their beauty are important aspects of owning this silk drape, explained in detail in this blog.
Nothing spells extravagance like silk does. Being the second largest producer of silk in the world, producing around 18% of the world's total silk, India has the unique distinction of producing all commercial varieties of silk. Southern India is the leading silk producing area of the country. Silk fabric, also known as Paat in East India, Pattu in South India and Resham in North India, is a natural fiber produced from the cocoons of mulberry silkworm via a process called Sericulture.
The yarns produced from the process of sericulture are used to weave a variety of textiles. Traders introduced Chinese silk cloth to India, mainly from Samarkand and Bukhara and it gained enormous admiration among the royalty and the nobility. Jamawar as well as brocade weaving centers in India developed in holy cities and trade centers because of the demand for expensive fabrics by the royal families and temples.
White-Swan and Fuschia Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Brocaded Border
🌀 Origin : Kanjivaram sarees originated in the town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, India. According to legend, the art of weaving silk sarees was brought to Kanchipuram by the sage Markanda, who was believed to have woven clothing for the gods.
🌀 Weaving Technique : The weaving technique used to make Kanjivaram sarees is believed to have been developed during the Chola dynasty, which ruled southern India from the 9th to the 13th century. The technique involves the use of a pit loom, which is operated by two weavers working in tandem. The sarees are made using pure mulberry silk and zari (a type of metallic thread) and are known for their durability and sheen.
🌀 Patronage : The art of weaving Kanjivaram sarees was traditionally passed down from generation to generation within weaving communities in Kanchipuram. The sarees were often made as part of a bride's trousseau and were considered a symbol of wealth and social status.
🌀 Development of Designs : Over time, the designs and patterns used in Kanjivaram sarees evolved to reflect the changing tastes and trends of the times. During the Mughal era, for example, the sarees were influenced by Persian designs, while during the British colonial era, the sarees incorporated floral motifs and European-style designs.
🌀 Spiritual Value : The motifs of Kanjivaram sarees are inspired by the art of Tamil temples. From the ancient Rudraksha to the floral creepers, peacocks, and Gopuram of temples, each aspect of temple culture features on the field of Kanjivaram sarees. The inclusion of sacred motifs in the textile makes it a valued part of temple rituals as well, with priests offering Kanjivaram clothing to the gods.
The origin and popularity of Kanjivaram sarees are rooted in the local traditions of Tamil Nadu. some of the reasons behind its popularity and continuity can be explained through these stories of Kanjivaram.
It is believed that the weavers of Kanchipuram are descendants of Sage Markanda, the master weaver of the gods. The folk legends tell that sage Markanda learned the art of weaving Kanjivaram sarees from goddess Parvati. The silk threads used in weaving are said to be as delicate as lotus fiber and as strong as a tiger’s claw. This gives the Kanjivaram saree an eternal and durable aura, making it a sacred drape.
Kanjivaram weaving dates back over 400 years, flourishing under the patronage of the Pallava kings. The art continues to be a revered tradition, blending ancient craftsmanship with contemporary trends.
The art of Kanjivaram weaving lives with the Pattu Saliyar and Devanga communities of weavers, along with families whose ancestors traveled from Surat to Kanchi. The gold threads used in Zari are brought from Gujarat while the silk is prepared locally.
☛ The process of making Kanjivaram saree starts with washing the silk yarns, which are then dipped in a container or a boiler with color.
☛ The yarns are turned many times in the boiler to make sure they are evenly colored. Once the dying is completed, the yarns are sun-dried.
☛ Yarns used in warp are then treated with starch to prepare them for the loom.
☛ Bamboo frames are used to stretch the yarn which is then rolled in bundles to keep them clean and tangle-free.
☛ A warping drum is used to transfer the thread to the warp beam.
☛ Weft threads are added to spindles and the process of weaving starts.
☛ Borders of Kanjivaram sarees are added later on, using a traditional technique called korvai or in-sync technique.
☛ Generally, 2 weavers work on 1 saree, with one operating the threads for the body and the other working on the border colors.
☛ The Petni technique is used to attach the pallu to the saree, which makes the entire piece look as if it was done in one go.
☛ Adaai technique is used to decorate the border and details, to give them a raised texture.
Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Wide Brocaded Border
There are many different types of Kanjivaram sarees, each with their own unique characteristics. Here are some of the most common types:
🌀 Plain Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are made from plain silk fabric, with little to no embellishment. They are typically dyed in vibrant colors and can be paired with a variety of blouses to create a classic and elegant look.
🌀 Checks Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are characterized by a checkerboard pattern, with alternating colors and designs. The checks can be small or large, and are often complemented by a contrasting border and pallu
🌀 Brocade Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees feature intricate brocade work, with metallic threads woven into the silk fabric to create a shimmering effect. The designs can range from geometric patterns to floral motifs, and are often complemented by a rich, contrasting border and pallu.
🌀 Korvai Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are made using a traditional weaving technique that involves joining two or more silk sarees together to create a seamless design. The designs can be simple or complex, and are often characterized by intricate borders and pallus.
🌀 Ganga-Jamuna Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are named after the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, which are believed to converge in the city of Allahabad in India. They feature a two-tone design, with one color on the body and another on the border and pallu. The colors are often contrasting and complementary, creating a striking visual effect.
🌀 Bridal Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are typically heavily embellished, with intricate designs and patterns woven into the silk fabric. They are often worn by brides at weddings and other special occasions, and are designed to be the centrepiece of the bride's outfit.
🌀 Temple Border Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees feature intricate designs along the borders, often depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The body of the saree is usually plain or lightly embellished, allowing the border to take center stage.
Kanji-Cotton Sari from Chennai with Zari-Woven Animals on Border and Pin-Stripes
It is important to note how the Kanjivaram Silk Sarees are distinct from other kind of Silk Sarees. While there are many other types of silk sarees available in India, Kanjivaram sarees are known for their unique characteristics that set them apart from the rest. Here are some of the main differences between Kanjivaram sarees and other silk sarees:
🌀 Silk Quality : Kanjivaram sarees are made from high-quality silk, which is considered to be one of the finest in India. The silk used in Kanjivaram sarees is thicker and more durable than other types of silk sarees, which makes them ideal for wearing on special occasions.
🌀 Weaving Technique : The weaving technique used to make Kanjivaram sarees is unique and labor-intensive. The sarees are woven on a handloom, which involves the use of several threads at the same time to create intricate designs and patterns. This technique results in a dense, sturdy fabric that is able to hold its shape well.
🌀 Design and Patterns : Kanjivaram sarees are known for their intricate and elaborate designs, which often feature traditional motifs and patterns. The designs on Kanjivaram sarees are woven into the fabric, rather than printed or embroidered, which gives them a unique texture and appearance.
🌀 Border and Pallu : The border and pallu of a Kanjivaram saree are typically the most elaborate and ornate parts of the saree. The border may feature intricate designs or motifs, while the pallu may have a contrasting color and feature a large, intricate design.
🌀 Price : Due to the high-quality silk and intricate weaving techniques used to make Kanjivaram sarees, they are generally more expensive than other types of silk sarees.
Jet-Black Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Multicolor Wide Checkered Border
One of the most appealing aspects of Kanjivaram sarees is the motifs used to adorn these silk drapes. These patterns are derived from the architecture, painting, and cultural sphere of Tamil Nadu, and represent the ancient values of the region. Some of the most popularly used motifs in Kanjivaram sarees are-
☛ Mayilkan or eye of the peacock
☛ Malinaggu or jasmine flower
☛ Rudraksha, the sacred bead, the tear of Rudra
☛ Kamalam or the lotus flower
☛ Godhumai or wheat
☛ Kodi Visiri or floral creeper
☛ Vazhaipoo or banana flower
☛ Kasa Kasa Kattam or poppy seeds
☛ Puliyam Kottai or tarmarind seeds
☛ Manga or mango fruit
☛ Thazhampoo Reku or Kewra flower
Kanjivaram sarees are pure silk or silk blended textiles, with pure gold used in their decoration. What this means is that one needs to take extra care to properly maintain a Kanjivaram saree in their wardrobe.
Given below are a few basic tips for the maintenance and care of Kanjivaram sarees-
☛ Washing : Always dry-clean your Kanjivaram sarees to maintain the zari's sheen and the silk’s softness.
☛ Storage : Store them in a muslin cloth to allow the fabric to breathe. Avoid plastic covers to prevent moisture buildup.
☛ Folding : Refold periodically to avoid permanent creases and zari breakage.
☛ Handling : Keep them away from perfumes, sprays, or water to protect the silk and zari.
Blue-Ribbon Kanjivaram Sari from Bangalore with Zari-Woven Pallu and Checks
Buying a Kanjivaram saree is only the first step to a timeless fashion. Here are a few tested tips to style a Kanjivaram saree, that will ensure that you look like an Indian queen every time you drape this magical silk-
☛ Classic Bridal Look: Pair a red or gold Kanjivaram saree with traditional temple jewelry like chokers, long harams, and jhumkas.
☛ Contemporary Twist: Add a stylish blouse with a boat neck or puff sleeves, and accessorize with a sleek belt to modernize your look.
☛ Minimal Elegance: For casual occasions, opt for lightweight Kanjivaram sarees in pastel shades and styles with subtle pearl or diamond jewelry.
☛ Mix and Match: Use the Kanjivaram dupatta with plain kurtas or lehengas for a fusion ensemble.
While you search for the best Kanjivaram sarees online, here is a list of 10 sarees that can be your first or next Kanjivaram purchase-
The classic, auspicious green, with a broad and rich border, makes this Kanjivaram a traditional gem. The body is adorned with peacock-mango motifs, giving an intricate element to the silk drape, complemented by the shimmering elements of the border and pallu, offering you a timeless Indian silk saree for any occasion.
The bright pink color makes this Kanjivaram saree a bride’s best friend. Soft silk drape with intricate motifs all over and a curving floral vine on the border, cover the entire saree with glistening Zari, which will help you shine bright on special, festive days.
Kanjivaram sarees are synonymous with royalty, and this pure silk drape captures the regal element of these sarees. The deep green base of the saree is adorned with copper-colored threadwork, depicting the horse motif on the body and an elephant pattern on the border- both animals symbolizing sovereignty and power. Make a powerful style statement with this drape, whether it is a family function or an office celebration.
Covered in a number of traditional motifs, this violet-colored drape is a classic Kanjivaram, one that can be styled with heirloom gold jewelry for festivals and celebrations. The field of the saree is ornamented with ornate designs, while the border and pallu display everything from the Mayura (peacock) to the temple pattern and mango motif, making this a tapestry for Indian heritage fashion.
If soft, understated attire is your game, this beautiful coral haze Kanjivaram is a handloom must-have. The gentle, feminine pink, adorned with traditional motifs on the body and enriched with a betel leaf pattern on the border- a symbol of fertility and auspiciousness, crafts a drape that celebrates culture with a contemporary subtlety.
A twist of comfort and effortlessness on the traditional Kanjivaram, a Kanji-cotton saree is all about easy fashion statements. The breathable fabric covered in stripes and a rich border with a stylized peacock pattern done with Zari, make this drape a beautiful attire for all seasons.
A modern twist is added to the Zari work in this silk saree, which is replaced with copper-colored thread, that adds a metallic sheen to the neutral gray base. While the color choice and style have a touch of the trends, the motifs- architectural elements on the field and elephant designs on the border are purely traditional, making this a balance of times, old and new, a perfect drape for those who want something different, but traditional.
Another experimental piece, this Kanjivaram saree displays the timeless motifs of the silk drape on the border, while the field is covered in another classic craft- Kalamkari, the handpainted art from Andhra and Telangana, depicting the victory of gods and the celebration of their valor. A blend of two heritage crafts and a dynamic visual narration of history, this saree is wearable artwork that will make you stand out.
There is something about black that makes this traditional Kanjivaram saree appear distinctly modern. With a plain body and vibrant border, this silk saree is ideal for formal and festive days, where you can style the drape with jewelry and accessories to create occasion-appropriate style statements.
A magical world is woven in this Kanjivaram saree, yet another modern creation using the style of Kanchipuram’s weave. The body of the saree is adorned with eye-catching flora and birds, complemented by the traditional border, a vivid purple ornamented with Zari elements, and figures of Apsara and birds, an ancient symbol of auspiciousness, fertility, and fortune.
Kanjivaram sarees are known for their weaving technique, vibrant colors, and rich texture. Handwoven in the temple town of Kanchipuram, Tamil Nadu, they are made from high-quality mulberry silk and use designs inspired by temples, mythological stories, and nature. The sarees are known for their durability, heavy zari work (made from silver and gold threads), and the unique technique of interlocking weft and warp threads, which ensures they last for generations.
Kanjivaram sarees were given the Geographical Indication or GI tag in 2005.
Yes, Kanjivaram and Kanchipuram refer to the same type of saree. The name "Kanjivaram" is a variation of "Kanchipuram," the town where these sarees originate. Both names are used interchangeably to describe the silk sarees.
Kanjivaram sarees are from Tamil Nadu, a southern state in India.
The term "Kanjivaram" derives from "Kanchipuram," which is the town where these sarees are traditionally woven. "Kanchipuram" combines "Kanchi" (the ancient name of the town) and "Puram," meaning town or city in Tamil and Sanskrit. Over time, the term "Kanjivaram" evolved to denote the iconic silk sarees crafted in this region.
The cost reflects the high-quality mulberry silk, real zari (gold/silver threads), intricate craftsmanship, and time taken to weave each saree, often spanning weeks.
Look for the silk mark tag, check the texture for sturdiness, and observe the intricate details of the weave. Real Kanjivaram sarees often have a joint border interlocked with the body.
While they are popular bridal wear, lightweight versions are also available for festive and casual occasions.
With proper care, a Kanjivaram saree can last for decades, becoming a family heirloom.
Yes. Experiment with trendy blouses, jackets, or statement jewelry to give your favorite Kanjivaram sarees a trendy appeal.
Keep the saree folded with the zari inside out and avoid exposing it to moisture or direct sunlight for prolonged periods.
The Kanjivaram saree is revered for its gorgeous design, plush silk fabric, and delicate craftsmanship. It is certainly a masterpiece of Indian textile art. Women in India and other countries wear this classic saree with pride and elegance on important occasions since it has endured the test of time.
The Kanjivaram saree is a symbol of India's rich cultural heritage and the country's long history of creating some of the most exquisite and intricate textiles in the world. Its popularity is evidence of its enduring beauty and allure, and it will undoubtedly continue to be a prized component of Indian fashion for many years to come.
Your email address will not be published *
Email a Friend
Manage Wishlist