Jamdani sarees, the traditional weave of Bengal and Bangladesh are known for their floral and geometrical motifs, feathery-light feel, and months-long labor of the craftsman. In this blog, we will look at the history of Jamdani, the technique behind its intricate weave, and will let you in on some lesser-known facts about Jamdani.
Jamdani- jam (flower), Dani (pot or vase), as the name suggests, is a weave decorated with an eye-catching floral motif. Jamdani silk is a muslin cloth that dates back as far as 300 AD. It’s characterized by its loom weaving with grey and white thread, occasionally incorporating gold.
The craftsmanship of jamdani silk has been passed down through the generations, continuing the tradition of floral and figurine motifs within the fabric. Lighter-than-air but a symbol of luxury, Jamdani silk is one material that you can not miss if you love traditional Indian wear. So let us get you familiarized with Jamdani, the magical weave of the East.
The Delights of Jamdani Weaving
The name ‘jamdani silk’ has a Persian origin, coming from the word “jama” for cloth and “dana” for woven motif. This sheer cotton fabric has been made on a handloom by talented artisans for hundreds of years, passed down through the generations. While it’s now commonly used for sarees, its history dates back further than you might expect.
The first mention of jamdani silk comes from ‘Arthashashtra’, an economic book by Kautily, dating from 300 BC. You can find references to jamdani silk across the writings of Arab, Chinese, and European explores and traders. It also appears in the 9th-century book ‘Sril Silat-ut-Tawarikh’ by geographer Solaiman, stating that it was being made in Rumy–modern-day Bangladesh.
For centuries, the Greeks and Romans saw jamdani silk as one of the most prized trading commodities. Historically, jamdani silk was considered to be “threads of winds”. It’s widely thought that jamdani came around as a fusion between the ancient techniques of Bengal and the muslins produced during the 14th century.
The 17th century saw the golden age of muslin fabric under the Mughal rule. Workshops were set up in almost every region of Dhaka, with the Mughal rulers creating a monopoly out of jamdani silk. It was during this time that the term ‘jamdani’ began to be used. This period is also when floral motifs became synonymous with jamdani silk. In 1776 a piece of jamdani silk was reported to cost 56 livres, making it one of the most expensive textiles made by Dhaka looms.
Following the British conquest of India, large sums of money were invested into the industry, creating another monopoly over jamdani silk, exporting it to Europe. The late 18th-century saw a decline in Jamdani production as inferior thread and yarn were cheaper to import. As Mughal power declined in India, jamdani lost its cultural and societal significance.
Villages that were synonymous with their jamdani production – such as Jangalbari and Madhurapur – virtually disappeared. The East India Company began to buy textiles like jamdani silk directly from weavers. Fast forward to today, and jamdani silk is once again in style as a timeless textile. Jamdani silk is more in demand than ever.
This revival has seen more jamdani silk being made using cotton and gold thread. While the production methods have changed with the times, the color palette has changed to include bold and vibrant hues. There’s a growing movement amongst weavers to return to more traditional methods and motifs.
Jamdani has long been held as one of the finest muslins on the market, capturing our imagination with its effortless elegance. It’s often chosen as a textile for special occasions, gifted to those you love and passed down through the generations. Jamdani sarees are elegant and sophisticated, with the fabric draping over your body, adding an elevated feel to your outfit.
The most priceless Jamandi silk is the ‘panna hazar’ – a thousand emeralds. Jamdani silk has long been seen as a form of self-expression in modern society, allowing the wearer to embrace their cultural heritage and identity. The weavers who create this beautiful jamdani silk take pride and social recognition from their craft.
They’re seen as the masters of their craft, continuing the tradition and handing the knowledge of Jamdani silk to the next generation. You’ll often find children learning from their parents alongside each other in workshops.
The craft of jamdani weaving is listed as part of the ‘UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage program as traditional craftsmanship. In 2016, Bangladesh was given ‘geographical indication’ status for Jamdani sarees to reflect the garment's heritage and its cultural significance. It was the first Bangladeshi product to be given GI status.
Jamdani silk is traditionally made by men, with communities of these skilled artisans located across Bangladesh and West Bengal. The jamdani silk makers of today use silk and cotton blends for their textiles, weaving with full silk or incorporating gold yarn. This traditional textile is sustainable and environmentally friendly as weavers spin the fabric with tools using their hands and feet.
The intricate detailing of jamdani silk means that it can take two weavers over a year to complete a luxury garment. Traditionally, the detailing was made using dyed flowers and leaves. Today, most weavers use chemical dyes to create intricate detailing and motifs. Most patterns today will incorporate flowers like the lotus, jasmine, and rose.
The detailing is embroidered into the fabric by hand with small bamboo shuttles of thread moving through the weft, with different bobbins for each color. This intricate detailing means that the thread interlaces each other to give the illusion of jewels across the fabric.
Unlike Banarasi or Kanjivaram, Jamdani sarees are lesser-known Indian wear, which means there are many interesting facts about this weave that we do not know. Here are 10 interesting facts about Jamdani sarees that a fashion enthusiast will appreciate-
1.) Name : The term Jamdani is made of two words, jam (flower) and daani (vase), hinting at the fact that the multiple floral motifs on the saree make it look like a floral vase.
2.) Historicity : The style of Jamdani goes back to the 12th century and the weave is one of the most popular ones amongst Mughals, the Indian elite, and richer sections of society since the early medieval period.
3.) Origin : The technique of Jamdani originated in Dhaka in Bangladesh, which is why it is alternatively known as Dhakai Jamdani. After partition, the craft is practiced on both sides of the border.
4.) Weaving : Jamdani is traditionally woven in a pit loom, with the pattern drawn on paper and placed parallel to the weft threads, which are worked on by the weaver.
5.) Patterns : While the weave is known for its floral motifs, other designs such as geometrical motifs and ethnic patterns are also used in Jamdani.
6.) GI Tagged : Jamdani was given a GI or geographical indication tag in 2016. It is the first Bangladeshi product to get a GI tag.
7.) International Recognition : UNESCO declared Jamdani an “Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity” in 2013.
8.) Economic Value : Jamdani weaving provides livelihood to traditional weavers living in rural Bengal and Bangladesh, who have learned the craft from their ancestors.
9.) Modern Adaptions : Jamdani weaving has been made popular through contemporary designs and inclusion in clothing other than sarees, which are appreciated by global buyers.
10.) Beyond Bengal : Though the Jamdani weave is uniquely tied to Bengal and Bangladesh, areas beyond these lands such as Andhra Pradesh are also home to Jamdani weavers.
One thing that the buyers of heritage Indian weaves fear is the presence of machine-made copies in the market. While it may seem tricky to differentiate between a real Jamdani and a power loom-made saree, there are a few ways to spot an authentic, handmade Jamdani-
☛ Touch the fabric to feel its softness. The texture and lightness of Jamdani despite its rich design is the first sign of authenticity.
☛ Little imperfections in the design are also a sign of authenticity as it is proof of human touch, while machine-made sarees are too seamless in their design.
☛ The front and back of a true Jamdani are similar in appearance, which is not the case with machine-made sarees, where threads are visible on the reverse.
☛ Extra weft threads used in Jamdanis are evenly included in the weave of an authentic drape while a machine-made copy will have fine threads loose on the back.
☛ You can look for GI tag certification on the saree which is usually provided by the seller. Buying from an established seller is also a simple way to ensure that you receive genuine products.
☛ If the price of the saree seems too affordable, chances are, it is a machine-made piece. Authentic Jamdani is a product of hours of hard work and years of skills, making it a costly drape.
Known for their lightness and intricate floral or geometric patterns, Jamdani sarees can easily blend tradition with contemporary fashion. Here’s how you can style a Jamdani saree to look effortlessly regal-
☛ Traditional Pairings: A silk or brocade blouse complements the Jamdani saree’s understated elegance.
☛ Minimalist Appeal: Opt for a plain blouse in a matching or contrasting color to let the saree's motifs take center stage.
☛ Contemporary Twist: Experiment with crop tops, collared shirts, or even sleeveless blouses with bold patterns for a modern edge.
☛ Classic Bengali Draping: This traditional style emphasizes the pallu, showcasing the intricate patterns woven into the saree.
☛ Open Pallu Draping: For casual occasions, let the pallu flow freely without pleats to highlight its delicate design.
☛ Modern Belted Look: Secure the saree with a sleek belt to give it a chic, structured appearance.
☛ Jewelry:
☀ Keep it subtle with pearl necklaces or silver jewelry for a refined look.
☀ Add statement pieces like chandbalis or antique gold jewelry for weddings or cultural events.
☛ Bags: A simple clutch or embroidered potli bag can add elegance without overwhelming the outfit.
☛ Kamarbandh: A waist chain adds a touch of tradition and helps define the silhouette.
☛ Elegant Buns: A neatly tied bun adorned with fresh flowers like jasmine enhances the heritage feel.
☛ Soft Waves: Loose waves create a balance between traditional and modern aesthetics.
☛ Braided Looks: Opt for fishtail or French braids to add a contemporary flair.
☛ Focus on radiant, natural makeup with highlights on your cheekbones for a dewy look.
☛ Add bold kajal or eyeliner to draw attention to your eyes, paired with a soft or bold lip color based on the occasion.
☛ Traditional kolhapuris or embroidered juttis are perfect for cultural events.
☛ Block heels or metallic sandals work well for modern styling.
☛ Casual Daywear: Pair a pastel Jamdani saree with a simple cotton blouse and minimal jewelry. Add a sling bag for a relaxed vibe.
☛ Festive and Wedding Wear: Go for vibrant-colored Jamdani sarees, styled with traditional gold jewelry and a bun.
☛ Office Look: Style a neutral or muted Jamdani saree with a collared blouse and minimal accessories for a polished look.
☛ Summer-Friendly: Jamdani sarees are naturally breathable, making them perfect for hot weather. Pair them with lightweight cotton blouses.
☛ Winter Styling: Add a woolen shawl or pashmina draped over the saree for a sophisticated and warm ensemble.
☛ Transform your Jamdani saree into a gown or lehenga with creative draping for contemporary occasions.
☛ Pair a Jamdani dupatta with a plain Anarkali or kurta for a semi-formal yet traditional look.
Want to buy a cotton Jamdani for your office wardrobe or looking for a silk Jamdani for a special day? Whatever the occasion is, here are a few handpicked Jamdanis from our collection to inspire you while you make up your mind.
Against an earthy background, the ethnic motifs on this pure cotton Jamdani saree are reminiscent of the mud houses and terracotta temples of Bengal, a perfect understated piece for lovers of traditional touch.
Tiny floral butis all over in this beautiful pink Jamdani create a feminine vibe, perfect for parties and festivities. Accessorize this saree with your favorite statement jewelry and steal hearts with simplicity.
The traditional red, green, and white craft a timeless Jamdani, decorated with the classic floral vine motif that catches the eye. The translucent cotton weave, rich color palette, and bold patterns on the endpiece make this Jamdani an effortless showstopper.
Create a fairytale aura draped in this Dhakai Jamdani saree. Made with pure cotton that appears feathery light and as translucent as water, the saree is adorned with blooming vines that give it an ethereal and rich detail. Pair this with a statement stone jewelry piece or accessories with a traditional handbag and feel like an Indian princess at the next festive occasion.
Planning to wear traditional Indian attire to your workplace? Go for this luxurious yet comfortable pure cotton Jamadani. The traditional weaving gives the fabric an intricate feel while allowing a breathable finish that is ideal for the busyness of offices. Style this with a wristwatch or minimal ornament and a bun for a sophisticated look.
A white or off-white cotton saree is a timeless gem that must be in your treasure. And what better than this traditional Jamdani drape? The saree has a soft finish, a textured feel of cotton, and ethnic motifs on the border, creating a simple and stylish attire. The tassels on the endpiece add a designer, modern touch complementing the elegance of the drape.
The softness of cotton is made softer yet in this Jamdani saree. The pure cotton fabric is adorned with an ethnic floral vine motif, woven into the drape, giving the saree an ornate yet lightweight feel, which you can style in different ways according to the occasion.
Jamdani is made of two words- jam (flower) and dani (vase). Jamdani weave is popular for its floral motifs that make the saree look like a collection of flowers.
Undivided Bengal- Bangladesh and West Bengal in modern times are the home of Jamdani weave.
Jamdani sarees are famous due to the elaborate weaving that creates rich yet lighter-than-air drapes.
Jamdani weaves are rooted in the history of Bengal, starting from the 12th century CE. In medieval times when the Jamdani was loved by Mughals, Nawabs, and their courtiers, the weaving was done with Muslin, but as the fabric lost its patronage, weavers shifted to pure cotton and cotton blend material.
Weaving one Jamdani can take 6 months to 3 years and more. The weaving is done on a traditional loom, with the motifs added to the warp by hand, making this a labor and time-intensive craft.
The fine threads of Jamdani connect regions and cultures. From Bangladesh to India, this craft has sustained a small number of weavers, who despite the odds of the modern textile market which seems to be taken by fast-fashion and machine-produced dupes, keep silently and dextrously working on their looms to create air with threads in the form of timeless Jamdanis. Visit Exotic India Art’s textile collection to find handpicked Jamdanis, and other traditional Indian sarees and clothes made by local artisans, and become a part of the efforts to preserve and propagate the heritage of India.
Reference
https://www.vogue.in/content/jamdani-saree-history-origin-technique-indian-handloom
https://www.vogue.in/content/the-tried-and-tested-way-to-spot-a-real-jamdani-according-to-experts
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